For cabinet pics and info go here: https://www.fabozzi.net/operation-arcade-skill-game/
Sound Amp Board Installation to Control Sound
I ordered a XH-M189 sound amp board to control the sound.
- Chip: TPA3116D2
- Input voltage: DC 5-24V
- Output: max 50W dual channel
- Working frequency: 20Hz-20KHz
- Audio type: dual channel stereo
- Protection: over-voltage, under-voltage, over-heat, short-circuit
- Size: 84 x 51 x 29mm
I moved the jumper on the sound board located at JP3 to change the audio to output to the 3.5mm jack. That output will go into the 3.5mm jack on the amp board I bought then connect the speakers and power and I will be able to control the audio.
This is kind of redundant considering the machine already has an AMP board however after several tests I could not control the sound. It was either crazy high volume or so low you can only hear it when your ear is next to the board.
P6 on the sound board controls the audio so maybe someone else can have better luck with it however I lost patience and decided to go this route.
Error Booting Up
At first when turning this machine on it would not boot all the way into attract mode or it would intermittently work.
The issue turned out to be the 3V battery in the sound board. The pins were messed up on mine.
After bending them into the correct place and replacing the battery the machine booted!
Creating a Ticket Loop
I wanted to place this machine in a spot for amusement only. I could not find anyway to disable the tickets so I created a loop of tickets (I hope to upload a pic soon)
The first try I counted about 10-13 tickets and fed it through the feeder then turned the machine off. I then used scotch tape to connect the end. After several rotations they started to tear 🙁
On the second attempt I counted about 10-13 tickets and laminated them. After feeding them in to the feeder I used scotch tape to create a loop and it seems to be holding strong. If this does not work out in the long run I will look at an emulator.
I ordered an Arduino board to figure out this myself however it may be difficult to find time to take on that project.
The starter went out on the ballast of one of the fluorescent bulbs. I used the started from the ballast in the back and installed an LED version in the back. When the lights go out for the play-field I will probably do the same.
Bulb Located under my finger here:
The warning light at the top of the machine needed a bulb that I managed to find at AutoZone. I will try and get that part number at some point. It came in a pack of two so I have an extra in the back of the machine.
The light in the nose is a standard LED light socket #161
One of the bars fell down during transit and twisted the gantry. After putting the bar back on I pressed down on the right side while by wife pressed down on the left side with force and it bent back.
On the bars I added a washer so the screw head cannot go through the hold when jostled around.
The bars DO NOT use grease. For cleaning the tech suggested using steel wool.
Intermitted Registering of Success Forceps Extraction
I have not fully resolved this issue. The tech said to clean the shiny metal win spots with Windex and a paper towel and to clean the forceps tip with steel wool.
I took the metal piece off of writers cramp to take a look underneath and it looked like it could use a cleaning. In the moment for that one I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol I believe and it still is intermittent.
I got the Windex advice after I placed the machine onsite so I will have to try it out during maintenance time.
The tech also said the tip of the forceps and the green ground wire in the trolley should measure less than 4 Ohms.
The plates are a bit scratched up from lots of use so that could be a factor. Sales told me they have the parts however I have not gotten a quote on replacing all the metal win areas but in the future I may do that if the game does well onsite.